Hyperion Brewing: The Biggest Flight in Town

I still don’t know how to feel about the slow metamorphosis of Springfield, a community just north of downtown Jacksonville. The square mile of Springfield contains historic homes, parks, and churches, but its central artery, Main Street, is lined with struggling small businesses and boarded-up storefronts. Back in November, some colleagues and I went to City Hall to speak on behalf of Main & Six Brewing, a nanobrewery seeking to open on Main Street despite opposition from a few local churches. The council approved the brewery, and the owners of Main & Six have spent the intervening months remodeling the space and getting their equipment in place. During that time, however, another nanobrewery has opened its doors just a few blocks up the street: Hyperion Brewing Company.

IMG_1981I first visited Hyperion a few weeks ago when The Well at Springfield hosted a brunch gathering there. The staff were as welcoming as they were knowledgable, and they helped me pick out some outstanding beers for my tastes. Naturally, I was excited to take Jessi there once we returned from the Wild Goose Festival, so this past Thursday, we loaded up the puppy-sized cow and headed across the river to Springfield.

Hyperion’s menu consists of 15 beers with an impressive range of styles and flavors. Embracing their status as a nanobrewery, the Hyperion team switch these beers out often, leading to a slightly different menu on every visit. I could be perfectly content with their oatmeal stout or coffee brown ale, but during Jessi’s and my recent visit, we went for the most distinct item on the menu: the Big Jim. Served on what I can only describe as a small sawhorse, the Big Jim offers 7-oz. servings of every beer on tap. Calling the Big Jim a “flight” doesn’t do it justice, and at $35, this rack of beers is a pretty reasonable deal for two or three craft beer enthusiasts looking to expand their palates. Here are Jessi’s and my tasting notes…

IMG_2092#1- Joker Hard Cider
Though they’re not my usual preference, I will always defend ciders’ place in the summer beer pantheon, and this one did not disappoint. Smooth and crisp, its texture reminded me more of a pear, but the bite at the end signaled Granny Smith apple. If you’re a cider person, this is a solid choice.

#2- Stuck You (a stout)
Surprisingly light and carbonated for a stout, this beer could easily pass for a porter. There’s a solid roasted aroma that couples with a rich taste. Highly recommend.

#3- Ordinary Bitter
I enjoyed this one too, and surprisingly, so did Jessi! It’s a traditional bitter without too much complexity to it– simple and tasty and probably best paired with with food.

#4- Tepetl (a mint ale)
This one was unexpected and controversial. While the mint’s presence is only faint, it softens an otherwise hoppy brew, making for a pleasantly balanced lighter beer. Jessi thoroughly enjoyed it, but I would have liked more mint.

#5- Turn Up the Beet (beet weizenbock)
I wouldn’t order a full pint of this one, but I enjoyed it as part of our flight. This smoky sweet brew has a prickly texture to it and an attractive ruby coloration. While not my favorite of the lot, it’s an interesting concoction worth sampling. I went back for a few more sips; Jessi did not.

20264625_10211839044843362_1499080659513893424_n#6- Smoked… something…
I have to admit, at this point in the night, our notes got a little hasty. We had friends around us and a puppy-sized cow that was eager for affection, so only one word appears on the notepad by #6: “smoke.” I assume this means the beer is smoky.

#7- Cascadian Dark Ale #2
Almost a week later, Jessi and I are still debating this one. Jessi, a fan of the beer, says it tastes like the North Woods (pronounced “Nort Woods”) in a glass, so it reminds her of home. On the other hand, while I respect the inventiveness here, this beer has a little too much going on for my tastes. I find the pine flavor overbearing, and there’s something about it that tastes almost a bit artificial to me. Maybe it’s just my palate though, so I’d encourage at least sampling this one.

#8- Coffee Brown #1
Brewed with local Social Grounds coffee, this was easily in my top three for this flight. The coffee taste is a little overpowering, but it plays well with the nutty flavor of the brown ale. Highly recommend.

#9- Suddenly Belgium (an ale)
If the beertender hadn’t told me otherwise himself, I would swear there was juniper somewhere in this mash. Given my love of gin, I could warm up to the flavor of this ale as well.

#10- American Porter #1
This may have been Jessi’s and my combined favorite of the night, and of Hyperion’s in-house beers, I’ve heard this chocolatey porter talked up the most. It’s got a full texture, but there’s still a good bite that hits you in the lower palate as you drink it. Order this porter. You will not be disappointed.

IMG_2093#11- Altbier #1
This is an outstanding German style beer that begs to be paired with a bratwurst. Jessi’s Wisconsin heart burst into song when she tasted this; it’s a good one.

#12- IPA #5
There’s a strong citra component to this brew, so this is a very accessible IPA for those not into hoppy beers. While not my favorite of the flight, this bright IPA was a pleasant surprise.

#13- American Stout #1 Nitro
Significantly fuller and creamier than the previous stout offering, this beer has a more traditional stout profile. A thick tan head matches a thick chocolatey texture. If you’re like us (i.e. those weird summer stout people who bartenders sometimes roll their eyes at), this rich, creamy beer is for you.

#14- Sour Blonde fermented with peaches
My fiancee is a sweet redhead, and the sour blonde did not agree with her palate or her stomach. The acidic nature of the sour can be a bit overwhelming if you’re not expecting it, but if you’re a fan of sours, give this peach-heavy brew a try.

#15- The Firm (Private Membership) Gose #1
There are only two ways to get access to the special #15 beer: (1) be a member at Hyperion or (2) order the Big Jim. While we felt honored to try it as part of our mammoth flight, I have to admit this sweet grainy style doesn’t really appeal to me. Jessi and I each took a sip, contemplated, and turned to each other. After a moment of silence, I finally offered a description, “Lucky Charms?” So this beer wasn’t a favorite for either of us, but we’re looking forward to seeing what else makes its way into the coveted #15 spot on future visits.

Because of Hyperion’s nanobrew approach, I can guarantee a slightly different menu by the time you visit, but it’s definitely worth checking out. The atmosphere is hospitable, and the beer is outstanding. It’s a welcome addition to Jacksonville, and I’m excited to see what future collaborations will bring!

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